终于要去北海道了。由于冯小刚执导的《非诚勿扰》在国内热映,并且把北海道这个地方拍得神乎其神的,所以北海道突然成了国内旅游来日本必经之地之一了。在冯小刚的大作之前,来北海道的基本是台湾和香港的游客,大陆客不到10%。后来大陆客暴涨,连日本的风景区都插个牌子,用中文写道“这里是中国电影非诚勿扰的拍摄地”。。。北海道这么热闹,搞得我自然也想去凑下热闹。上网一查,北海道7月中旬去最好,为啥呢,美丽的薰衣草的海洋啊,而且不热,晚上还要盖冬天的被子。再一看博客,自从4月15号以后就没更新过了,这有点对不起观众朋友们啊,呵呵。最重要的是,我妈特别支持我啊,给我补助了一半旅游经费吧。因为他们在我的熏陶下,深深明白了一个道理,正所谓见识决定高度,高度决定人生啊。。。不趁着年轻走遍世界,怎么对得起自己即将逝去的青春呢。所以,立马决定走起!
怎么玩好呢?不想千篇一律的重复着旅游的生活。突发奇想,要不然,全程帐篷露营+烧烤+火锅+钓鱼???哟西,我这人就是喜欢体验不一样的人生。查了一下,北海道每个比较美丽的景点旁边都有露营场(稍微说明下,日本的土地基本都是私有地,所以你随地扎个帐篷之类的,等于说就是侵犯了别人的所有权。。。然后被别人看到会直接打电话报警的,哪怕你在深山老林里,那也是有主地),这样就可以住宿了。然后去买了个帐篷,原价3200人民币,买了个二手的,600人民币。然后买了两把椅子,烧烤炉等等居家必备之良品。然后考虑怎么去北海道。
从新泻去北海道,最便宜的交通方式预计有3种:
①从新泻坐最便宜的夜行巴士到东京成田机场,然后转飞机去札幌附近的新千岁机场。回来也是按这个路线原路返回。但是这样一来,到了北海道之后,由于北海道交通不方便,还得租车。租车的话,如果租个1200CC的小车的话,300块钱一天,租5天的话得1500人民币。这样比较便宜,但是这样一来,就不能全程帐篷了,因为帐篷太重了,除了帐篷还有各种烧烤炉,各种火锅炉,各种椅子桌子衣服等等,不可能通过飞机拿过去了。这样一来就没意思了,而且只能住酒店了。这样高昂的酒店费用,特别是一些风景区的酒店那是贵死人。暂时不考虑吧。
②从新泻坐船去北海道,把车运过去北海道。回来也是这样。这样的话,运车的费用比较高,来回是2400人民币。但是好处是,可以把所有帐篷类的东西全部放在车的后备箱运过去,全程可以帐篷露营,很有意思应该,而且还能省不少酒店费用。还有个更重要的原因是我女朋友没有坐过轮船,我本人呢,也只坐过去海南岛和佐渡岛的小轮船。所以也很想体验下超级大轮船(还没达到邮轮的级别)的感觉。选来选去,就第二个方案吧。
这一次北海道之旅完成后,日本总算是去了三分之二了吧(目测)。从这个地图来看,目前去过的地方基本是关东以及东北地区,关西和中部方面没太去过,只去过了个比较出名的京都和大阪。主要还是太远,和路费太贵。从新泻去关西地区的话,来回最便宜的夜行巴士,就得需要600人民币以上。更别说坐飞机或者坐船了。至于全日本制霸的计划,在毕业之前能不能达到,现在看来还是比较悬的,只能说加油了。东京其实已经去过了,不过只是路过,瞟了一眼高楼大厦而已,没有仔细的玩过。因为以后 去东京的机会太多了,还是把有限时间投入那些山沟沟里吧。日本其实没有想象中那么小的。举个例子吧,日本最左边那个大岛,叫做九州岛,其面积就跟台湾一样了。所以日本领土面积有六七个台湾那么大吧,所以也不算小了,至少比大不列颠及北爱尔兰联合王国(也就是英国)大多了。但是跟我泱泱天朝还是不能比的。。。日本全面积也就相当于四川省的面积吧。
再说说行程吧。北海道有很多玩的地方,这次旅行呢,尽量去一些人烟罕至的地方,那些大城市之类的就不去了,比如在中国比较出名的函馆(日本三大夜景之一),什么啊这些都不去了。本人已经厌倦城市了,特别是东京大阪名古屋以外的城市,就跟中国5线城市一个样子,没啥玩头,准备也就沿路去一些小镇采购点吃的什么的。主要目的地有这些,去看下富良野的薰衣草,美英的花海,日本第二大的动物园,然后世界自然遗产的知床等等。按照上面地图的表示,是从A到I。全程有个六七百公里吧。本人尝试过2天开700公里的,所以5天700公里那是很充裕了。不过要是我女朋友有驾照就好了,这样我也能休息休息了。确定了大概方向以后,就决定了以下路线。
- 7月19日:10:30乘坐「らいらっく号」从新潟港出发
- 7月20日:早上5点左右,到达小樽,然后小樽→3札幌→支笏湖(晚上在【休暇村支笏湖露营场】住)
- 7月21日:支笏湖→富良野→美瑛→旭川(晚上在【道立21世纪森林公园露营场】住)
- 7月22日:旭川→層曇峡→網走(晚上在【呼人浦露营场】住)(后来由于感冒了,还是去知床住了民宿)
- 7月23日:網走→知床五湖→屈斜路湖、摩周湖、阿寒湖(晚上在【和琴半島露营场】住)
- 7月24日:屈斜路湖、摩周湖、阿寒湖→釧路湿原→苫小牧港(19:30坐船回到新潟)
- 7月25日:下午15:30到达新潟市
============第一天:新潟港出发至北海道小樽港===================
上船之前,先大喊一声,北海道,我来啦!!!!!!!!!!!
人生第一次把车放到船上运过去。就是靠这个梯子,把车开上去。可惜我的车底盘太低,会把底盘卡坏,所以这条路并不是我走的,我走的是下面的一条通道,一共只有4台车跟我走一个通道。我的车全长是4.66米,所以运费还是挺贵的。需要将近2万日元,也就是1200多人民币运一次,不过司机是免费的,这点还是挺好,等于说1200元里面还送一个司机的船票。
这就是船的内部,底下的一个通道,只有4台私家车,其他都是大货柜车。前面停了一辆房车,这是我第一次这么近距离观察一个房车的内部,发现里面真是一个完整的房间啊,有厨房,有厕所,有洗澡的地方,还有客厅,电视机等等。后来在旅行途中也遇见了无数房车,导致突然一下我对此也很有兴趣。
船内还是非常非常的漂亮的。很舒适,要啥有啥,像酒店大厅一样。坐在皮沙发上打发打发时间,喝点啤酒,也是很惬意的。
给我女朋友来一张,在船上一角。给我女朋友来一张,在船上一角。
给我女朋友来一张,在船上一角。
这里可以看到大海。可惜拍照的时候是晚上了,看不到大海了。不过晚上有晚上的好处,晚上船舱内打灯,非常漂亮。这里可以休息,很多日本人白天在这里喝瓶啤酒,吃点毛豆,看着大海闲聊着,期待着北海道的到来。
高级餐厅。船内的高级餐厅很豪华,价格自然也很豪华,几乎没什么人去吃。一个晚餐要价5200多日元,将近300多人民币,两个人的话,就要600多人民币,实在是太贵了,就算对日本人来说,也是极为奢侈的了。所以除了几个看上去比较有地位的老人家在里面吃以外,基本没人在这里吃饭。
穿内的楼梯。就旅客来说,船大概有3层可去。最下面一层是客房,然后第二层是吃饭的地方,第三层是高级客房(3万多日元一个人,也就是1800人民币一个人)。这有点类似《泰坦尼克号》里面的场景,贵族住上面,我们这些底层劳动人民,只有住第三层了。。。
船里的这个洗浴中心很不错。刚进去的时候发现没人。等我一口气跑回房间拿了相机过来的时候,已经有几个人在里面泡澡了。可惜不能拍到内部了。内部超豪华,超干净。有3个浴池可以泡澡,中间那个还可以用水压来按摩。
船里的这个洗浴中心很不错。刚进去的时候发现没人。等我一口气跑回房间拿了相机过来的时候,已经有几个人在里面泡澡了。可惜不能拍到内部了。内部超豪华,超干净。有3个浴池可以泡澡,中间那个还可以用水压来按摩。
船里面有很多很多娱乐设施,比如这个乒乓球台,一个小时200日元,超级无敌便宜了,除此之外,还有各种各样的娱乐设施,例如游戏机房,按摩椅等等。
出港之前,那个海水还是黄色的,这个时候穿上有很多很多的海鸥。我女朋友想去喂海鸥,我个人是没有什么兴趣了,因为之前在去仙台的松岛,新泻的佐渡岛的时候,我都喂了很多海鸥了,但是我女朋友还是人生第一次体验。所以她非常的开心。给她买了包虾条让她去喂,然后她又把这些虾条分给那些船上的小朋友和老奶奶们去喂鸟,最后开心地笑了。
肚子饿了得吃饭啊,我们这些下层劳动人民是去不起高级餐厅了,但是去个普通的餐厅吃个拉面还是可以的。点了餐以后,等餐之际,给我女朋友再来一张。
一碗拉面,加一碗荞麦面,加一盒章鱼小丸子,110多人民币吧。跟学校旁边的拉面一个价格,还是很划算的。顺便一提,在日本就不怕被那些商家宰。因为日本不管是飞机场,火车站,还是轮船,还是主题公园,里面卖的饭的价格,都跟外面一个价格。这点跟中国很不一样。在中国的火车上,一个超市2块钱的方便面,能卖10元-15元,可见其黑心。
第二顿,上面是猪排咖喱饭,60块钱一份,旁边那个豆腐,12块钱一份,下面是拉面加红烧肉盖饭,60块钱一份。
=====================第二天:小樽、札幌、支笏湖之旅=====================
为什么来小樽呢,因为下船的地点就在小樽。小樽市是一个很不发达的地方,其人口只是北海道第7。但是其特色是由于殖民色彩强烈,这里建立大量的西式建筑,让人错以为到了欧洲。这个地方的特色就是无尽的上坡下坡。 全是坡。这里有点象山城重庆的感觉了。
一家寿司店,但是外表却是有100年以上历史的西洋建筑。
路边的房子。其实这些都是当年的仓库。
这条河就是著名的小樽运河了。这条闻名于全日本的运河,不是在路上挖出来的,而是在原来的海上,建了很多陆地,所以被称为填满式运河。这条河呢,本来是拿来运送东西的,但是二战后的日本,随着经济的起飞,机械运输已经全面替代了人力运输了,这条河,既然不能走大船,也没有存在的必要了。所以这条河渐渐就被荒废。那个时代,60年代的日本,素质可远远不及现在日本人的十分之一,往这条运河里面乱人垃圾,搞得这个河恶臭熏天。臭气直接飘到城市市中心。所以,有人提出,干脆把这个运河给埋了吧。然后有比较环保的人出来反对。后来吵来吵去,就进入了80年代。。。两边意见都得照顾呀,于是就填满了一半,就是现在有路灯的,人可以走得这边,就被填满了。填埋后,发现效果不错,于是安上路灯等等,久而久之就变成了一条很闻名的运河。。。顺便一提,这个运河全长1300米,而我国的京杭大运河全长1794公里,直接可以开轮船。。。所以说,来日本,看宏伟的建筑,那么你就来错了,来日本应该去品味日式的精美。比如这个运河,如镜面般的干净,然后两侧的仓库现在是很著名的饭店,酒吧以及音乐盒贩卖中心了。是一个很浪漫的地方。晚上在这里向女方告白,应该很浪漫哦。
札幌站的北口。札幌市,是日本10大政令指定都市之一(我们新泻市也荣登日本海沿岸唯一一个政令指定都市),拥有200万人口,虽然只有中国一个大的县城的人口数量,但是已经是日本第4大城市了。第一的东京就有2000万人口。。。札幌还是不错的,我女朋友一进城就直呼,好繁华。。。在新泻这样的农村地方呆久了的人,看到有那么一个两个超过10层的建筑,都会惊呼,好繁华。。。其实札幌没法跟东京比的,东京那才是水泥的森林。到了札幌,考虑怎么玩呢。是开车逛一逛呢,还是买个什么电车票,坐电车逛逛呢。后来还是决定坐电车,结果发现这是一个错误。。。虽然电车到各大景点,但是到了景点的周围起码还要走10分钟,顶着烈日炎炎的太阳,人都快脱水了。后来得出一个结论,有车,为什么还要走路。。。发誓以后再也不走路了。
札幌站的南口。左边挂着“欢迎您使用银联卡”。说明国人的消费能力还是很不错的。不过呢,以前北海道的90%的观光客都是香港或者台湾的。大陆的人不到5%。后来随着冯小刚导演的《非常勿扰》,北海道一地变成了梦幻一般的境地。很多游客蜂拥而入。而对中国人来说,每次回国,都要被问及,去没去过北海道?要是回答没去过,很多人就会惊讶,北海道你都没去过,你去日本干嘛?其实北海道并非那么梦幻的地方,只是被冯小刚神话了而已。就是一个普通的地方。这是很多去过的人的反馈。不过我早就有心理准备了。日本玩了差不多的大半了,由于日本面积狭小,通信方便,还有就是民族单一,所以南北基本没有任何区别。在北海道看到的建筑,在最南的九州岛也能看到,人也都是一样的。但是抱着制霸全日本的目的的我,还是必须要去北海道看看。
电车站门口的小学生旅行团。日本小学生的制服还是很可爱的,尤其是那个帽子,绝对是日本的特色。在我拍摄的这个角度,有比学生数量还多的父母亲们站在这里,虽然我镜头里面没拍到,他们全部都是空着手,或者就提一个女式的手提包,这些比孩子们还大的行李箱啊,背包啊之类的,全是由这些不满10岁的小学生们自己拿。最左边的那个小朋友,拿着2个这么大的包,一路提着,有说有笑。这就显示出中日教育的差距。中国的教育只注重知识的吸收,而日本的教育注重人格的养成。知识什么时候学都可以,而人格一旦形成就很难逆转。所以为什么中国老出现什么清华北大复旦毕业的投毒害自己舍友之类的,这就是典型的人格缺陷。这个大钟的建筑,是札幌当地很出名的一个建筑。是以前札幌农学校(现在北海道大学前身)的一个演武堂。当时聘请了美国一个博士来当武术教头,于是建立起了这个美国西部风格的演武堂。
这个大钟的建筑,是札幌当地很出名的一个建筑。是以前札幌农学校(现在北海道大学前身)的一个演武堂。当时聘请了美国一个博士来当武术教头,于是建立起了这个美国西部风格的演武堂。
札幌市街。在新泻难得一见的高楼。
旧北海道县厅。所谓县厅,就跟中国省政府一样。在明治维新的那个时代,所有官方大楼都必须简称欧美模式,其中最受欢迎的就是美国的巴洛克模式。这建成的时候,是北海道数一数二的高楼大厦。用的是北海道自产的最好的材料。来这里观光的游客,全是香港的,围着这个楼说着夹带着英文的粤语。还有一种人说着听不懂的话,不知道是泰国还是越南的。
北海道大学。日本9大帝国大学之一,现在只有7个帝国大学,还有2个随着日本的战败被分离出去了,一个是韩国汉城帝国大学,一个是台湾帝国大学,现在这两个都从日本分离出去,成为了亚洲数一数二的优秀大学。可见当年日本教育之强悍。日本现存7个帝国大学,分别是东京大学,京都大学,东北大学,名古屋大学,大阪大学,九洲大学和北海道大学。我这个描述的顺序,基本就是日本人公认的大学的排名。对于我来说,我只关心日本大学的法学院排名,单纯就法学院排名来说,除了前面7个帝国大学之外,在国立大学里面,过了就是一桥大学和神户大学了。然后就是千叶大学,新泻大学,熊本大学,冈山大学和香川大学。当然,还有很多私立大学的法学院,也是不比帝国大学的法学院差的,比如早稻田,庆应义塾大学等等。我为什么来北海道大学,北海道大学是我当年读大四的时候,花了将近1年的时候申请,结果最后还是没申请下来的一个学校。所以这次我来北海道,一定要来看看我差点能上的北海道大学是什么样子的。
北海道大学果然漂亮,也非常符合北海道的西洋风格。这个貌似是个什么教务处吧,这绝对是美国西部牛仔们的那种建筑。因为墙壁是由一片一片的向下斜的那种木片组成的。
北海道大学的一个博物馆之类的,这个建筑,呵呵,就跟欧洲国家的大学的建筑一个样了,基本没什么区别了吧。这样的建筑在北海道大学里面到处都是。可惜,当我兴奋地冲到法学院的大楼前,还是非常失望,因为他是一个现代建筑!而且是一个80年代,90年代那种老式的现代建筑,就跟深圳大学的那个老图书馆一样,贴满了马赛克之类的东西,超级无敌掉档次!不过北海道大学超级大,虽然在国内算不上太大,但是在日本已经是数一数二地巨大了,逛了半小时,天气炎热无比,头昏脑胀了,还是不逛了,去吃中午饭吧。
中午坐地铁来到了一个海鲜市场,一看价格,巨贵,一只螃蟹800人民币,感觉这里仿佛不是日本了,而是回到国内了,那些服务员拼命出来拉客,抢客。这种场合我还是在日本第一次看到。这里跟大家讲下日本的一些销售场合的东西。去大型商场啊,或者电器店之类的地方,那些员工们除了叫一声“欢迎光临”之外,不会过来干扰你的,你可以随便逛,慢慢逛,还可以各种试用,总之,就是不会过来问你,你需要买什么,想买什么,各种推销啊之类的都没有,就是你自己看好了,叫他过来,他会给你很详细的讲解,除此之外,他们不会过来烦你。但是这个地方的服务员们,各种叫卖,各种拉客,搞得都不想进去看了。因为你一进店,一群人就围上来问你买什么,烦死个人。
但是饭还是要吃的。北海道的海鲜盖饭还不错,尤其是这个上面的这个黄色的海胆。海胆是一种很昂贵的东西,吃过海鲜的人都知道,在深圳的一个海边的酒楼里,一个海胆炒饭,就要200多人民币。之前我打工的寿司店里面也有海胆寿司,我个人比较喜欢吃,但是奇腥无比。介绍给了很多朋友吃,没有一个人不反胃的。后来才知道,真正好的海胆,是没有腥味的,反而有一点点回甜。这次来北海道,点了一个海胆盖饭,就是上面那个,吃了吃,果然好吃。这个盖饭,一个150多人民币。下面这个是我女朋友吃的,很普通的盖饭,不到100块钱,里面有三文鱼,有帆立贝,还有鱼子等等。除了这些饭还有各种配菜,吃得还算不错,消暑效果一流。
吃完饭去白色恋人工厂看看。白色恋人在国内,如果喜欢吃巧克力的人,应该无人不知无人不晓把。就在地铁站宫ノ沢这个站附近,下车走5分钟即可到达。进去是不要门票的,可以随便玩,但是要进去参观工厂的话,是要给钱的,一个人600日元,差不多36元人民币吧。然后每个人分一包白色恋人的巧克力饼干。顺便一提,白色恋人的巧克力饼干貌似已经成为了北海道的一个最出名的巧克力品牌了。
进去以后,有好几个房间,就是像这个样子的,特别的欧洲风。
庭院也是欧洲风格的,特别是中间那个圆形的没有水的池子里的河马,是典型的欧洲风格,中国或者日本的庭院是绝对不会出现这类动物型的雕塑的。这个就跟被英法联军烧毁并夺取的圆明园12生肖的兽首一样,那个就是西洋风格,是乾隆帝集中西艺术之大成建造出来的,中国本身是不存在那样的雕塑的。
庭院里面的玫瑰花园,非常的美丽。那个塔本身是个音乐盒,随着中间那层的逐渐打开,一些载歌载舞的人偶们配上音乐翩翩起舞。
这就是内部工厂见学了。要进去的话,需要给钱,刚才说了,一人给了600日元进来了。宫廷般的美丽。
隔着玻璃,可以看到白色恋人这种巧克力饼干是如何生产出来的。看着这些机器轰隆隆地开动,想起了一段跟广西一个公务员的对话。我问他,桂林旅游那么发达,人山人海,为什么经济那么差,GDP那么低。他回答说,旅游业这种东西,桂林一天到晚拼命拉游客,还不如你们深圳的工厂开工一个晚上产生的GDP多。这话现在想来大概是这么个道理。这个地方,一分钟可以产生数千快的饼干,而10几块饼干就要卖60人民币,我们这些进来见学的游客们,一个人才交36块钱,而且一天还没几个人。所以说为什么工业才是国家经济腾飞的原动力。。。
札幌市区也逛得差不多了,然后由于太阳猛晒,我跟我女朋友也有点要崩溃了,再加上昨晚在船上只睡了3小时不到,所以都扛不住了,赶紧驱车去到札幌旁边70多公里的支笏湖,这个湖号称日本屈指可数的清澈的湖,但是由于湖水非一般得冷,即使是在八九月份最热的季节,官方也是不建议人下去游泳的。今晚决定就在这里安宅扎营。把帐篷一搭,呃。。。不对,不是一搭,因为第一次露营,所以是花了2小时看着说明书折腾了一晚上,太阳都下山了,才搭好,搭好后也没法拍照了,算了,就趁着湖边还有点夕阳,来几张支笏湖的风光吧。具体有关搭帐篷的内容,留在第二天晚上详细介绍,大家请继续往后看。今晚也没吃饭了,太累了,搭好帐篷,本来说好先躺2小时休息会,起来再开始吃烤东西吃,结果一躺下,睁开眼就就是第二天了。。。不过支笏湖不愧是一个寒冷湖,晚上在帐篷里睡着,得把冬天的大棉被拿出来盖着,我刚开始还嫌热,把脚升出来了,结果不到半小时就冻得没知觉了。所以大家以后有机会去支笏湖露营,记得一定要带上冬天的棉被。。。 第二天早上5点的支笏湖。湖面刮起了小风,本来宣传手册上平静如镜面的湖,突然一下变成了像海一样,波涛汹涌。。。
一大早就听到两个人在那里搞什么东西,等我起来后看到他们把橡皮艇给搞好了,然后冲下水一阵狂划。也算是给平淡的湖面增添了一点动感的色彩把。来一张。
=======================第三天:富良野、美瑛、旭川21世纪森林露营场=======================
选择7月21日来北海道,其中一个最大的目的当然就是过来观看薰衣草了。北海道要么7月来,要么9月来,要么就是冬天下雪来,7月9月可以看花海,冬天可以坐破冰船,可以去看梦幻一般的冰世界。我们选择7月份来,主要还是冲着薰衣草来的。我们早上5点半就从支笏湖出发,驱车前往北海道的中部富良野了。这里有几个农场是很漂亮的,其中我认为最漂亮的就是富田农场了(冨田ファーム)。免费的,进去看看吧。但是想进去没这么容易哦,汽车排队已经排到了几公里外了。排了将近半个多小时,我们终于进来了,薰衣草的海洋,可真美啊~
这是另外一个农场,忘记叫什么名字了。
给我女朋友来一张。富良野这个地方,除了是薰衣草的海洋以外,也是中国人的海洋。。。一卡车卡一车的中国游客从这里下车,那个阵势,搞得少数派的日本人和韩国人都不敢大声说话了。这里又要吐槽下我国国民素质了,各种东北口音,拼命扯着嗓子喊呀喊呀,然后几个家长由于小孩乱跑,各种骂自己的小孩儿,往死里骂,响声震天。不过呢,中国游客的素质,还是比以前提升了,这里面有卖冰欺凌之类的东西,我看到所有的中国游客都把吃剩的冰淇凌的那个纸,很规矩地扔到垃圾桶里。虽然这个在日本是三岁小孩都知道的常识,但是对我国国民素质来说,已经是个巨大飞跃了,这点还是要值得表扬的。
买了个薰衣草做的冰淇凌,好吃,250日元一个,15块钱人民币,在日本算是相当便宜了,别忘了这是景区耶,在学校旁边,随便一个小店,一个普通的牛奶冰欺凌就要300日元。这冰欺凌好吃,颜色也好看,紫色的,跟薰衣草一个颜色。
我想说,这个花,其实是臭的。。。我女朋友为了当好模特,摆出了很享受的表情。这点我又联想到了日本电视节目了。日本电视节目里面,超级多的节目都是关于吃的。到各种神秘的饭店去吃饭之类的。然后主人家端出来了各种料理,主持人每吃一口,就要仰天长啸“うまい~~~おいしい~~”(日语中美味,好吃的意思),然后各种惊叹的表情。。。其实哪里有这么好吃的玩意儿啊,日本料理主要还是偏清淡,说白了,也就是啥味道没有。至于那么夸张么?后来终于理解了,这就是节目效果啊,就跟我女朋友这张一样,一切为了效果啊。
薰衣草海洋旁边有几个小卖店,专门卖本地产的哈密瓜和玉米。哈密瓜,一个差不多200人民币以上,好的要300多人民币。所以在日本,就算是已经工作10来年的日本人,能像中国人一样一顿就吃一个哈密瓜(日本的哈密瓜超小,就跟中国的小西瓜一样,两个拳头那么大),是难以想象的事儿。所以在日本的咖啡店里,哈密瓜都是1片1片的卖。一片250日元,15块钱人民币。这个哈密瓜不是像中国那样是直接拿嘴啃,而是用一个叉子一点一点叉着吃,悠闲这点可以吃5-10分钟。不过味道超级好吃,好吃到什么地步呢,形容不出来,反正我一辈子没吃过这么好吃的,我在深圳吃的远远比上这个,这个就跟直接吞冰糖一样甜。不过不知道跟正宗的新疆哈密产的哈密瓜比,哪个好吃呢。因为我一个新疆的同学跟我说,深圳卖的这种哈密瓜,在新疆是拿来喂猪的,不是给人吃的。。。
玉米,一根400日元,32块钱人民币。一样的,也是跟直接吃冰糖一个感觉。后来我去超市买了一根生的,直接剥皮,然后生吃,出来的那个汁,就跟甘蔗的汁一样清甜,好吃极了。这个玉米,是用盐水煮的,为了消去他一部分甜味,不然太甜了,吃多了会腻。
富良野逛完后,准备去北海道中部最大的城市旭川去安营扎寨。路上突然跳出来一只狐狸挡住我的去路。狐狸是纯野生的,但是他并不怕人,围着我的车转了一圈后,看到我拿相机拍它,它还站着盯着我,让我拍,真是可爱的狐狸啊。然后后面一辆车过来了,由于我车停下来拍照,挡住了他的路,那人貌似也不耐烦,然后一按喇叭,把这狐狸给吓走了。
北海道不是山就是森林,环着山绕啊绕。从山上看北海道,还是很美的,中间那块大平原,可以拿来作为牧场吧。
看到一个树林,门口停了几台车,说明是可以进的。我刚想进去看看,结果看到树上面挂了一个牌子,上面写着熊出没注意。这谁还敢进去啊。。。但是熊比较怕笛子声音和铃铛的声音,北海道很多地方都有卖,我们没有买。进去看看吗?最后我决定还是进去看看。一边走,一边跟女朋友聊聊,如果熊出来了,怎么办。是躺地上装死呢,还是撒腿就跑?聊着聊着,看到一个小瀑布。
给镜头插上一片中灰镜,降低下进光亮,然后出来的流水就变得跟丝绸一样顺滑了。这个时候,突然,听到后面有脚步声!!!!莫非熊来了?
扭头一看,晕死,这不是火影忍者里面的“晓”吗?有必要到这深山老林来cosplay吗?有必要这么敬业吗。。。二话不说,上去直接求合影。这两人居然是女的,声音很甜美。声音好听的女人一定是美女。。。这是铁一样的定律。看着他们这么自然的摆了个pose,我手都不知道往哪里放了。。。干脆裤带里一插,来个万能姿势。事后很后悔,为什么不来个鸣人的螺旋丸的姿势。。。
离开了这个神奇的瀑布以后,开车往前走了不到1公里,发现前面的车又排起队了,好几百辆堵在那。过去一打听,貌似前面有个池塘,很不错的样子,于是我也想去看看。去到那里,果然美丽,这种神奇的蓝色我只在九寨沟看过,当然九寨沟的水的面积是这个好几万倍了,这个不算什么的,但是对日本人来说,这里可能算是一个比较稀奇的地方。这个水够蓝,可惜不够清,看不到底,这点跟九寨沟比还是有差距的。
美瑛的街区。全是洋式建筑。其实这种不是真正的洋式建筑,这个是日本人发明的洋式建筑,是改良过的洋式建筑。美瑛这个小镇,非常的干净,美丽。人生要是有那么1个多月,在这个镇上面常住,那才叫生活呀。
开啊开,快到下午6点了,还没找到住的地方,有点着急。突然看到一个北海道道立露营场,赶紧驱车过去,去到那里,我就说了一句话,就是“对不起,想询问一下露营的事儿。。。”那管理员直接就说,你是外国人吧,我们这里是政府办的露营场,不收费,但是需要登记,请出示护照或者外国人登陆证。”这真是打击我啊。然后跟那管理员聊天,问他能不能帮我搞个插座,我的充气床垫需要插头之类的。最后他跟我说,记得晚上不要出去露营场,露营场旁边有个免费温泉,去泡的时候,除了泡澡一定要呆在车里,否则晚上到处都是熊。。。。这可把我吓死了。我的生命可是重于泰山啊。。。不过这个露营场,还真是不错,一看就是政府搞得,就是比私人的豪华,设施非常完美。除了少数几个人搭帐篷之外,其他人全是房车!导致我一个晚上就在帐篷里计算,买一个房车要多少钱。。。我要是30岁左右能拥有一台自己的房车,那该多好啊。
开始搭帐篷咯。昨天在支笏湖搭帐篷,花了2小时,真是累死个人,一边看说明书一边搭。今天就不一样了,10分钟全部搞定。给我老婆来几张搭帐篷的巾帼英姿。不要问我为什么不帮忙,我帮忙就没法拍照了,呵呵。
当当当当!帐篷完成。美好的一晚即将开始!这个露营场好就好在,有停车位!这样方便从后备箱拿行李,当然,主要还是给房车停的,不会有人开一个我们这样的小轿车来露营的,这种车简直弱爆了,要么越野车,要么房车,要么哈雷摩托。因为日本人基本都有两台车,一台上班用,一台买菜啊,露营用的。先不管车了,开始吃饭。
自己带的烧烤工具。来这个地方之前,在沿途的一个小城镇采购的,买了好多牛肉,鱿鱼,还有这个鸡肉串。当时去到一个商场的时候,我买了很多肉,然后跟服务员说,有冰吗?服务员指指卖雪糕的冰柜说,有冰糕。。。我说不是冰糕,是冰,冷冻用的冰,然后那服务员瞪着我,恍然大悟,原来你是外国人。。。然后跑去给我拿冰,我后面排队排了很长很长。过了一会儿,服务员回来了,提了一大袋冰,跟我说,送你的,别到处去说啊。。。
这个地方烧烤感不错,不过蚊子貌似挺多的。在腰间挂一个这个东西,里面塞一个蚊香,既不会烧到人,蚊香也不会到处撒。就这么度过了一个完美的夜晚。而且7月底在山上扎营,晚上只需要搭一层薄薄的摊子就行,一点都不冷,不像那个冷死人的支笏湖。
充电。跟管理员聊了一会儿,问他有没有电源给我们充电,我们的充气床垫啊,手机啊,相机电池啊需要充电。于是就给了我们一个这个玩意儿。
充电之余,在车上喝一瓶北海道产的牛奶。牌子叫“十胜”。十胜是一个很有名的地方,在富良野旁边,是一座山,里面的温泉超级出名。不过我个人不是很爱泡温泉了,主要是穿衣服太麻烦了。。。1000毫升的牛奶,我一个人一口气全干了!
这些照片都是第四天早上补拍的。第四天晴空万里。这个地方是露营的时候洗菜洗碗用的,我早上在这里刷牙,洗头。。。三天没洗头啦!洗头的时候过来无数老奶奶们围观,说不冷吗,旁边有管子,用管子冲比较好。。。我头也不抬,一边冲着水一边说“大丈夫,萌太奶”。。。
=============第四天:匆匆赶路12小时,途经网走监狱,进去看看===================
早上起来后懒洋洋地晒了2个小时太阳,快10点了,准备出发直奔一个叫网走市的地方,那里有一个不错的露营场。沿途走的时候,听到直升飞机的发动机的声音,扭头一看,一个一米五左右长的直升飞机在给农田施肥!!!!!日本的农民这么高级啊。这个直升飞机好强劲,地面的种植物都被吹出了一个圆形,就跟电影里演的一样。。。于是就停车,下去猛拍。这直升飞机太不可思议了,一看就是高级货,全金属,然后发动机声音超大,貌似加的汽油,不是充电那种玩具。然后这个直升机飞离我越来越近,离我越来越近。。。这是为什么呢?
原来路边一个人在操纵这个直升飞机,他看到我过来了,就故意把飞机飞到我旁边来,好让我拍照。。。好酷啊。酷玩了以后接下来是长达5小时的长途奔驰。。。
早上10点出发,下午4点左右到达网走市了。昨天晚上吃火锅吃多了,上火了,第二天口干舌燥,头还疼,又开了N小时车,已经快不行了,坚持到网走来休息一下。网走有个北方博物馆,讲这些靠近北极圈的人民是如何生活的,40块钱人民币一个人,大学生可以打半价。北海道以前其实不是日本的领土,是民治维新后才把他正式划为日本领土的,对他进行了大力的拓植。在北海道里面,本来还生活着几万个爱奴人,被日本人称为虾夷族。这个博物馆呢,就是介绍这些原始人的生活方式的。里面主要是些生活用具啥的,没啥太吸引眼球的地方,左下这个图,是用海豹的肠子做的衣服,特别防水。逛完出去后,发现有个地方叫网走监狱,特别出名,现在是个博物馆了。于是准备去看看。
网走其实以前就是一个监狱城市,不知道大家看过蝙蝠侠了吗,这个就类似蝙蝠侠里面的哥谭市,各种犯罪,然后这个监狱里关着很多犯罪份子。当然,很多人在现在看来并不是犯罪份子的也被关在里面。由于明治维新后,日本人里面出现了很多民权主义者,即要求民主自由的人。但是呢,明治政府虽然非常开明,但是其本质还是一个君主专制下的内阁制政府,所以在民主自由这块,跟当时的日本是不太沾边的。所以关了很多人。形成了日本最大的监狱。这个监狱,是日本最黑暗的监狱,对于日本来说,就是一旦进去了,就算也不能活着回来的地方了。估计相当于流放到西伯利亚之类的地方。当然,这座监狱也为开拓北海道做出了巨大的贡献。
当年的日本警察。当时的日本人,很矮,所以被中国人称为小日本。我本人1米74,穿上鞋1米75多吧,所以目测这个警察也就一米5不到。不过现在的日本人,可不是什么小日本,其平均身高已经超过中国人了。以前看过一个统计,貌似比中国人均高2厘米左右。日本拥有全世界最健康的食物,最完善的食品安全机制,最高最谨慎的食品生产态度,日本人长得高也没有什么想不通的了。在新泻大学的男生,基本都跟我一样高,甚至比我高很多的都比比皆是。
这是日本监狱的一个典狱长的办公室。这玩意儿怎么说了,跟中国现代好多建筑一样,不伦不类。当时1900年左右的时代,日本非常流行西洋建筑,所有的政府大楼,或者跟政府有关的大楼,比如学校啊什么之类的,统统要修成西式的,这样才上档次。但是对于日本传统的建筑,还是有一些感情的,不能轻易抛去。所以就搞出来了这个一个东西结合的东西。下面是类似美国西部的那种建筑风格,上面是日本的典型的神社式的建筑,总之以现在的眼光看来不伦不类的。不过当时可能看上去挺美。。。
会面所。表现良好的服刑人员可以到这种没有任何妨碍物的地方跟自己的妻子儿女们见面。当然旁边必须要坐一个警察来监督了。一个月最多有7次,一次30分钟左右吧。当然这个是针对特别优秀的服刑人员来说的.
这些服刑的犯罪者们,本来应该住铁笼子里的,但是他们肩负着建造大东亚共荣圈的“神圣”理想,必须往死里劳作,给前线的士兵们送去源源不断的粮食。于是他们就必须得外出田地里玩命地耕作,他们生产的粮食也成了侵华日军最主要的粮食来源之一。白天劳作完事儿后,晚上就住在这样的工棚里。
这是在监狱服刑的犯罪者们吃饭的食堂。很简单的饭菜,7成大米加2成小麦组成的干饭,加一碗里面有几片黄瓜的味增汤,加2坨咸菜就是他们的食物。就这样的食物,宣传手册上讲是“非常健康的饮食,给他们的劳动提供了充足的体力”。。。这玩意儿能吃饱吗?
暗无天日的监狱。道路中间那个上面可以放木炭来烤火。监狱不是中国那种圆柱或者长方形的木头组成的栅栏,而是用斜的木头组成的栅栏。这样外面的人可以看到里面的人在干嘛,里面的人却看不到对面监狱的人的在干嘛。
澡堂,一个月可以洗3次,对服刑人员来说,是最快乐的时光。不过当时洗澡可不像现在那么充裕,时间只有15分钟,每3分钟为一组,第一个3分钟之内,你得脱衣然后清洗身上,第二个3分钟你可以下去泡,第三个3分钟你得剃须,第四个3分钟你得。。。总之,5个3分钟之后,全部得结束。
逛完这些景点后,开始去露营地。来到露营地,发现一神翻译。按照日语的意思是,拉完尿请冲水,冲完后把水龙头还原。然后神翻译成了“使用后请倒水(这句还算通)。请与水龙头海鳗返还”。。。一看这就是google翻译的吧。。。看来类似神翻译,不光我天朝上国有,日本也不少。。。来了以后发现这虽然是个免费的露营地,但是没有管理人。在没有管理人的情况下,这个营地一个垃圾都没有,可见日本这个民族的素质之高。但是素质问题我现在不想谈,因为没有管理人住的小木屋,我就没法给充气床垫充电啊。这样一来,晚上就没法睡了,而且我头昏脑胀的,也小感冒了,开了将近10个小时的车了,实在扛不住了,于是我提议,直接去世界自然遗产的地方,知床,去找个民宿住吧。于是在网上订了个民宿,最便宜的,300块钱一晚,离这个网走也只有不到100公里。于是我驾着疲劳之躯,来到了这个世界自然文化遗产所在地。
到了民宿后已经是晚上10点半了,伸手不见五指。因此民宿相关的照片都是第二天早上补拍。房间的就不拍了,300块钱的房间,在日本就是民工级的房间了,能睡觉能洗澡就行了,本着报喜不报忧的原则,就不放出来了。
民宿的内部还是装修得很有感觉的。跟国内客栈的差不都的味道。这里住着来自各个国家的人,但是价格不菲。好点的房间,一个人头就得800-1000人民币。顺便一提,日本的酒店也好,住宿也好,都不是按房间算钱的,都是按照人头算钱。但是房间最小是两个人起算。比如这个民宿,2个人住,300块钱人民币,一个人的话,也得交300人民币。但是3个人住的话,就变成了450人民币了,就是这个意思。
今天是“丑の日”,7月22日。丑在12生肖里面是蛇,但是日本人是不吃奇形怪状的东西的,比如鸡爪啊,什么的。所以蛇更是不会吃了。但是呢,鳗鱼长得跟蛇有9分像,所以就吃鳗鱼吧。所以在丑之日这天,必须要吃鳗鱼便当。鳗鱼是很贵很贵的一种鱼,现在日本产的鳗鱼已经很少了,基本都是中国产的鳗鱼。日本人几块钱一斤从中国进口鳗鱼,然后几十块钱一斤做成便当卖出去。以前我打工的寿司店也卖这种便当,万恶的公司还要求我们员工必须每人买3盒(因为没有客人买),我当时还问店长,丑之日是什么。店长很惊讶的问,丑之日你都不知道???这是你们中国的传统啊。。。。十二生肖都是你们中国的啊,你们中国不过这些节吗。。。好吧,我只能说,文 革之后再无中国。。。当晚,去スキ家买了一盒鳗鱼便当给我女朋友尝尝鲜,她在国内虽然吃过,但是在这种节日下吃这个便当,还是第一次。
早上一大早起来,来到知床斜里,世界自然遗产的地方。经过前面几次旅行,我早就对日本的世界文化遗产不报希望了。。。以前看过一个节目,关于世界文化遗产的,说中国有万里长城,印度有泰姬陵,日本的群马县的富冈制丝厂凭什么成为世界文化遗产,然后几个专家出来讲解,说富冈制丝厂怎么怎么牛X,开创了日本女工与男工平等的劳动权之类的。。。我去的时候发现也就是个工厂嘛。。。这工厂在中国要多少有多少。。。后来陆续去了几个世界自然遗产,比如富山县的合掌集落等等,发现就一个造型独特的山村吗,这样的山村在中国要多少有多少。。。不过呢,世界自然遗产,还是比较少去的,所以虽然不报什么希望,但是还是想去看看。
买了2张票,知床观光船票,一个人3100,换成人民币180元。
上船咯。本座霸气的身躯一展,所有的老人家都离我远远的,全部挤到其他座位上去了。皮沙发是相当舒适。不过呢,我们年轻人还是得上甲板吹吹风才行。
船还没出发,让船上一个人帮我和我女朋友合影一张。
以上就是世界自然遗产。。。我不知道说什么好。。。可能是早有心理准备了,不像以前那么愤慨了。不过昨天发现了熊在这里捕鱼,前天发现了鹿在这里玩耍,今天什么都没发现,而且全是云,看上去要下雨的样子了。。。
白白花了360块钱!!!!算了,肚子饿了,吃饭要紧。驱车来到旁边一家鱼市场。这个地方主要是接待团体客,就是几百人的旅行团一起吃饭的地方,不管散客也接。在日本哪里吃饭都无所谓的,价格都一样,不会宰客的。为什么不会宰客,我还没去了解,我估计吧,这是消费者权益保护法明确规定的,就算旅游区也不允许乱报价吧。国内的工商管理局是不是应该好好地管理管理风景区乱收费的现象了?
点了2碗海鲜拉面,100块钱,点了碗味增汤,10块钱,点了盘油炸鹿肉,30块钱。这个鹿肉啊,不是一般的鹿肉,叫虾夷鹿。虾夷就是日本本岛的人对北海道原住民的蔑称。这个虾夷鹿呢,以前只剩下几百头了,濒临灭绝了,然后日本政府开始想办法要怎么保护他们了,于是对他们进行了完美的保护。结果几年后,变成了十几万只。。。现在呢,日本人民又开始研究如何吃这些鹿肉了。而我点的这个油炸鹿肉,就很不错,先用面粉裹着,然后炸着吃。香喷喷,好吃,看得见。
从山上看看知床斜里町。
知床五湖,这个景点是自然遗产里面一绝呀~~~~但是这是网上说的,到底是不是一绝,得自己去看。5月到7月,熊频繁出没,并且袭击人,所以这个时候必须配导游,一个人5000日元,即300人民币,我和我女朋友两个就得600人民币。但是从8月1号到10月份封山为止,是免费的。。。郁闷。我打开钱包,发现里面只有不到1万日元。我从家包括来回路费,带了13万日元,差不多8000块钱人民币,现在还剩个1万日元了,也就是600多了。完蛋了,汽车还要加油,还得吃饭了。。。早知道刚才那个骗人的观光船就不去坐了。。。不过呢,知床五湖不是说看不了,还有一条高架桥,是免费的,但是只能看五个湖其中的一个湖。算了,能看一个是一个,走吧。
这地方真美,终于有点世界自然遗产的味道了。来了之后我就更后悔之前为什么要坐船了。。。把那钱省下来请个导游多好啊,还可以跟大黑熊进行零距离接触呢。知床之所以被称为日本最后的秘境,是因为,这个山上总是围绕着一层云雾。而山的对面,即海测,却是阳光明媚,万里无云啊。
五湖之一的一个湖。很美,这里确实有点秘境的感觉了。
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厕所里面贴满了这个。大概就是说,千万别喂熊吃东西。为什么呢,他一旦吃了人类的食物后,就会牢牢记住这种味道,永远不能忘记。然后他跟踪这种味道,来到人的家里之类的,给观光客和当地的住民带来人身的伤害。这个时候,只能把它杀了,不然他会永远袭击人类。反过来说,就是,你喂它吃东西,就是杀了它。想想熊还是挺可怜了,就是为了吃口饭,不得不死啊。
管理整个知床的行政中枢所在地。知床斜里。这是当地的最发达的地方的中心城市。非常非常袖珍,但又非常美丽,有特色的一个车站。
车站的内部。永远是那么地干净整洁。在这个地方,居然看到了几个不化妆的高中生。在东京啊,甚至是新泻这样的地方,不化妆的高中生都不敢来车站逛。。。
车站外面的中心区。除了一个宾馆比较好,其他啥也没有,很安详的一个小城。逛完了知床斜里,准备找地方住宿了。去弟子屈这么个城市旁边的有个摩周湖和阿寒湖的地方露营吧,那里也是跟知床并列的美丽的地方。
路上远远看到了温泉山,冒着浓烟的山,在车里就可以闻到剧烈的硫磺味。
到摩周湖的和琴半岛啦。这里露营的话,一个人400日元,然后有管理人,太好了,跟他们借了电源,把充气床垫搞定后,开始扎营!配套设施还挺齐全的嘛,有这种拖车,可以把车上的行李卸下来,运到扎营地,这样就不累了,真好。
安营扎寨完毕。平静的摩周湖像一面镜子一样。不过天上的乌云让我隐隐有些不安。万一下暴雨了,怎么办?我们这个帐篷就算抗雨,那也是只能是毛毛细雨吧。但是饭还是要吃。。。于是开始把菜洗吧洗吧,开始吃火锅咯。
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食材都是路上收集的,身上实在没钱了,搞了一堆蔬菜(其实日本蔬菜比肉还贵),外加一些脆骨,超市买了一包辣白菜火锅底料,开始吃咯。右边那个番茄汁,纯的,不加糖,超难喝,差点吐了,建议大家别买。。。
==============================最后1天:再见,北海道—倾盆大雨中开400公里回港口============
一大早,来到这个釧路市。这个城市本身是北海道东边最大的一个城市了,比较繁华,其中最著名的是这个釧路湿原。一共有4个展望台,可以在里面玩3个小时,里面有各种各样的野生动物,非常完美的一个地方,可惜倾盆大雨啊倾盆大雨。这个釧路游的计划全泡汤了。不过呢,还是赶路重要,下午7点半的船,6点半就得登记,所以拼命往回赶,怕赶不上,又走了高速公路,过路费贵死,300公里要300多人民币,幸好有ETC卡,绑定的信用卡,不然身上没有现金可以回家了。但是这个高速公路比较坑爹啊,居然是单车道!!!!前面一个80多岁的老人家,开个80多公里每小时,后面跟几十辆车在屁股后面。
唯一值得欣慰的是高速公路旁边的厕所还不错。。。。
各种高速路的信息,厕所里面是相当豪华。我经常说,你去到一个国家,啥也不用看,就看厕所,就能判断出这个国家的人民的素质。日本随便一个农家乐的厕所,就比国内3星级以上酒店的厕所要豪华,干净,主要是没味道。
==================总结====================================================
北海道,就自然风光来说,无愧是日本第一。但是并非电影《非诚勿扰》里那么完美。电影那些镜头是经过各种精挑细选选出来的,然后各种后期处理,各种剪辑才出来的效果。事实上,北海道很普通的一个地方。要我评价的话,可能比广东省最好的地方美,但是跟四川,新疆,西藏等比,根本不是一个档次的。所以来北海道旅游,一定要放平心态,不要以为这里就是人间仙境。。。但是在天气好的情况下,这里确实还是值得一来的。
这次总共花费,14万日元,即8000多人民币。所相当于我一学期的学费了。其中包含了来回的船费,运输费,过路费,燃油费以及各种门票钱和吃饭的钱。住宿因为有了帐篷,基本不怎么花钱,除了住了一回民宿。。。已经是相当相当省着用了,所以说北海道是烧钱之旅。我研究室的一哥们,带他老婆小孩去玩,7天花了20万日元,然后研究室的另外一个女士,准备带他老公和小孩去,预算是30万日元。。。北海道啊北海道,我当年去一趟京都,才花了2万日元,玩了2天。
先休整一段时间再继续上路吧,这次花费太猛了,需要一段时间缓缓气。
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