自从宝宝出生以来,全家人就开始围着宝宝转呀转,掐指一算,都快1年没有出去旅游了。因此在去年11月左右,就开始策划一场旅行。刚好去年10月的时候收到风声,说日本新天皇即位,再配合五一黄金周,放假10天。那我又请了2天假,组成了12连休。假期空出来了,那目的地呢。首先我是不愿意办理签证了,除非是电子签,或者可以邮寄办理的那种,或者是在新泻有领事馆可以直接办理的那种。因为办理签证的话,需要去东京。我和我老婆从新泻来回东京的话,需要新干线费用人民币2400。。。我总不能还没出发就先花个2400 吧。何况现在宝宝又急需奶粉钱。。。于是看了看地图,看了看在新泻有领事馆的国家,选定了俄罗斯。然后再加上几个免签国,比如塞尔维亚和波黑,都是很有故事的国家,因此也选择了他们。
然后我们是不看攻略的,拒绝攻略!我们从来不按照别人设定好的事情去做。看到很多中国人拿着手机按照攻略找餐厅,然后找攻略上别人推荐一定要吃的,我觉得对此超级无语。人就是要面对未知的世界才有惊喜,攻略别人都帮你做好了,你就像个机器人一样去完成别人的指令,这样人生还有意义?
选择塞尔维亚和波黑倒不是因为免签,而是因为我们真心不想去国人蜂拥而至的地方。比如泰国,除非工作出差,否则绝对不会去的,因为很难理解为什么去那里,看什么?看各种国人团体游自拍么。。。看各种婚纱照公司业务拍摄么。。我们要去的地方,一定是人烟罕至,至少还没被夕阳红大爷大妈团污染过的地方。。。OK,就这么定了,东京出发,先飞莫斯科,在莫斯科玩2天半,然后飞塞尔维亚的贝尔格莱德,玩2天半,然后坐大巴从贝尔格莱德出发去波黑的萨拉热窝,玩2天半,然后坐大巴返回塞尔维亚的贝尔格莱德,然后坐飞机飞莫斯科转机(不入境)然后直奔上海出差。。。因此这次旅游全程带着西装皮鞋公文包,当然都是放在箱子里的。

确定了路线后,然后把父母从国内叫到日本来帮我们看孩子。。。当然我父母也是高兴极了,因为可以十几天抱着孩子亲亲亲,亲个够了。。。
行程确定后,就开始第一步,查验机票:
因为我提前了半年策划,所以即使是天皇即位的10连休假期,两个人从东京→莫斯科→贝尔格莱德→莫斯科→上海这样的路线也才6000人民币一个人。所以旅游要趁早策划呀。。。当然6000人民币只能坐俄航了。不过俄航跟我平时出差坐的东方航空是一个联盟的,叫天合联盟,所以积分可以录入到我的东方航空里,而且貌似积分很多,说不定坐几次就可以赚一张到欧洲的免费机票。。。而且我自己是天合联盟的精英会员,可以check-in不用排队,也可以享用高级VIP贵宾室。。。所以,就俄航了!虽然听说俄罗斯人开飞机有点像开过山车。。。
第二步就是去俄罗斯的签证了,这个没什么好说的了,照着俄罗斯驻新泻领事馆官网上的要求提供材料就行了,非常简单,就是护照,邀请函(自己从网上购买后打印),机票以及保险,非常轻松就拿到了。个人感觉,按照中国人均GDP破万美金,然后中国和俄罗斯继续蜜月期继续下去的,互免签证也就是这2-3年内的事情了。至于塞尔维亚和波黑就是免签,属于说走就走的那种。
第三步,就是等假期的到来。。。等啊等,终于等来了12连休。
对了,先说一下费用,这次全部杂七杂八算在一起,算上机票,反正整个俄罗斯,塞尔维亚和波黑之旅下来一共花了2.4万人民币。
——————2019年4月25日,不说了,开始飞了!——————-

早上坐第一班的新干线,从新泻直奔东京,然后再转成田机场。同行者,老婆也。截止于2019年,中国护照还是一坨翔,周围很多人的梦想就是有朝一日换掉这本护照,然后当着大使馆的面将它撕得粉碎。。。虽然天朝的猪肝红护照的的确确是一坨翔,但是近年来的进步也是有目共睹的,除了一大堆叫不出名字的岛国以外,最近几年塞尔维亚、波黑、白俄罗斯、阿联酋、卡塔尔、厄瓜多尔、摩洛哥、突尼斯等等国家都免签了,虽然掰着手指头都能数得过来,但是比起以前只有打着放大镜才能找到的岛国,算是进步了吧。再给天朝5年的时间,如果5年内还是这么垃圾的话,只能撕了。。。

虽然我有天合联盟的精英卡,但是可惜是银卡,不能带老婆入场VIP贵宾室啊。那总不能让老婆在大厅里坐着等吧。放心,我们还有无限次使用的PP卡(Priority Pass的缩写)。。。这张卡是我的日本三菱UFJ银行白金卡的附属卡,有了这张卡,虽然不能进进场最顶级的VIP室,但也可以进次一级的VIP室了。这张卡发挥了大作用,整个行程我们使用了四五次,幸好有它。。。

问题是,日本是PP卡的重灾区。。。我出差经常使用的羽田机场是不支持PP卡的,成田机场的话,OK,但是PP卡可以用的VIP贵宾室不是全日空也不是日本航空的VIP室,而是大韩航空的贵宾室。。。逼格一下掉了2个等级。算了,先Check-in贵宾室再说。

贵宾室就是这样。。。总算不用跟大妈大爷在一个地方候机了。虽然档次不是很高,但是至少有沙发可坐,有生啤可喝,有点心可吃。。。最主要的是,大家都是压着声音说话。。。

一上来就先来一杯生啤再说。这玩意儿永远是全场最值钱的。。。按照市面价格,1杯生啤大概500日元,就是30人民币,喝个三杯就值回将近100人民币了。

这就是为什么日本是PP卡的重灾区的原因之一。。。没有热菜,没有香槟,没有白兰地。。。只有硬邦邦的面包,和外国人绝对吃不惯的饭团。

不过有万能的方便面。。。没到景区的照片都是有点糊的,见谅。

第一次去欧洲,经验不足,居然在日本的换钱中心换了卢布。。。其实在机场换,真心亏大了。拿了2万日元给换钱中心,本来按照网上的物价能换11500卢比的,结果只给了我9000卢布。。。所以我们学乖了,以后不再换钱中心换了,直接一张VISA卡,去当地的ATM机取现金。取一次40人民币手续费,但是汇率很良心。

卢布长这样的。100卢布差不多等于10人民币。1000卢布就是100人民币。所以卢布还是比较容易计算的。吃饭,看到写着300卢布,就是30人民币,哈哈。

去欧洲之前一定要买这种欧标插头。。。否则没法充电。。。我们旅游是没有做任何攻略的。因此不知道欧洲要用这种转换头。。。到了酒店就傻眼了,没法充电。。。幸好住在一环,去超市买了一个转接头。然后俄罗斯,塞尔维亚,波黑就靠这个转换头撑起了一片天。

上飞机啦!俄罗斯航空!战斗民族的飞机!

在飞机上干坐了10个小时。。。看了3部电影。。。坐到奔溃。然后适应了日本和中国的空姐轻声细语地问:“请问先生您需要什么?”后,太不适应俄航的空姐了。。。虽然确实是魔鬼身材,胸以下全是腿,但是。。。态度比较一般。特别是问完我要牛肉饭还是鱼肉饭后,直接问我老婆,“Do you??”。。。我老婆直接脸皮一拉,很不高兴。。。她已经习惯了日本那种快要下跪似的服务了,这种直接问:“你呢?”让她感觉到被侮辱。。。我跟她说,要习惯,不是每个国家的服务都是日本,日本那是人类的极限。

整整10个小时。。。飞机终于开始下降了,终于看到莫斯科的土地了。。。大家都快鼓掌了。俄罗斯地广人稀,75%是森林,每平方公里只有不到8个人,即使是在莫斯科这样的国际大都会里,也是大片大片的白桦林。这时日本都晚上10点多了,莫斯科这才下午4点,一片大亮。莫斯科是个日照很长的城市,早上6点天就大亮,晚上8点了天还是亮的。。。。然后下降的时候,差点被战斗民族的开飞机的方式吓死,整个飞机是砸向跑道的,然后被反作用力又弹起来,然后再砸下去。。。虽然吓死人,但总算是平安着陆了。。。

下了飞机,入境的时候,发现貌似只有我们几个人入境。。。其实对大部分人来说,莫斯科只是一个亚洲去欧洲的中转站而已。从日本,或者从中国出发去欧洲的话,最便宜的还是俄罗斯航空,先到莫斯科转机,然后再去欧洲其他国家,大概来回只要5000多人民币。然后我就开始入境了,入境处的警察用俄语各种问我问题。。。我TM什么都听不懂啊。没办法了,用英文直接把她有可能问到的问题都说一遍,比如我是中国人,这次是从日本出发,来莫斯科玩3天,然后出发去塞尔维亚的之类的,也不管她听不听得懂。。。然后那个女警察居然拿个放大镜出来看我的护照是不是真的。。。尼玛我护照密密麻麻也盖满了几十个章了吧。。。你看签证是不是假的我还能理解,你看我护照是不是假的是几个意思?最后入境后盖个章,一身冷汗终于通关。希望我下次来的时候,就是免签了。

自从去年俄罗斯世界杯以来,莫斯科突然多了很多中文。其实说明中国确实实在崛起。莫斯科机场,就只有俄文,英文和中文。没有什么日文韩文。说明什么,说明只要会中文和英文,就能走遍天下。。。

到目前为止所有照片还是手机拍的,请见谅。。。手机在弱光的情况下,拍的照片真是惨不忍睹。不管什么华为,IPhone怎么吹,吹上天了,手机永远是手机,感光元件的大小和镜头的大小就已经决定在弱光环境下,就只能这个水平。出了机场,往前走,走啊走,就可以看到机场大巴的购票机了。反正挺明显的。

有中文真好。选择中文,因为我们是2个人,所以选择“双人单行票”。850卢布,差不多85块钱人民币两个人,价格中规中矩吧。

可以信用卡付款(不支持银联),也可以用现金支付。然后会出来一张票,这个票就是车票,上面的二维码就是扫码进站。因为我们买的是双人票,所以先拿给我老婆,让她扫码过闸,然后再给我这张纸,我再扫一次。注意是上面那个二维码,可以扫两次。下面那个二维码扫了也没有反应。

高铁的内部照片。还挺干净的,跟国内的高铁没什么区别,也有人推东西售卖。不过坐不了多久,大概40-45分钟,就会到终点站白俄罗斯站( Belorusskiy ),这个是去市区的地铁换乘站,从这个站就可以换成地铁去莫斯科的任何比较繁华的地方了。所以上车后就不用担心什么了,

进城的途中,一路上都是衰败的景象。各种苏联时期的集体住宅楼,墙体已经破烂不堪,各种涂鸦,满地都是数不清的垃圾。心里想着,怎么强大的俄罗斯是这样,怎么首都莫斯科是这样。。。还想着,也许到了市中心了就会好很多了呢?

一路上仅是后苏联时期的筒子楼建筑。各种墙体发黑,墙体剥落,涂鸦,垃圾遍地。。。虽说是4环,那也是莫斯科呀我的乖乖。怪不得俄罗斯至今还只是发展中国家。。。太多悲惨的画面了,可惜光顾着跟老婆聊天,忘记拍照了。等反应过来已经来不及了。。。到站了。

列车的速度越来越慢,快要停下来了,这个时候突然发现周围的建筑高大上起来了。。。其实白俄罗斯站也算是比较外围的站了,大概相当于北京的三环左右的,但是感觉一下干净起来了,房子也告别了苏联时代修的那种丑爆了的集体住宅式建筑了,从丑陋的反人类的筒子楼一下变成了略带哥特风格的高大上了。

上车的时候需要刷票,但是下车的时候就这么下来了,不需要任何票即可出去。包括地铁也是一样的。左边是到机场的列车,右边就是一栋老式建筑,里面其实就是地铁。先不进去,先在周围逛逛再说。

这就是车站里面了。反正俄国走的就是苏联式霸气的路子,没事干就先把广场修得很大。。。这点中国也是完美地学习了。每个高铁站出来都有一个巨大的广场。其实,这个广场有什么用呢。说明了一件事,就是地太大,不知道干啥好。。。而日本就是反其道而行,从来不搞广场,节省每一寸土地,感觉每一寸土地都是有用的,没有这种广场的感觉。另外说一下,俄罗斯没有拉客的,这是真心好,不像天朝你一下车一群人拉着你问你要不要坐出租车。。。在这里没有人上来问你要不要坐出租车。

1945年,苏联红军大胜邪恶德军后,就是在这个白俄罗斯车站迎接胜利凯旋归来的人们。二战死亡的苏联军人900万,受伤不计其数了,有多少人能跟这座雕像一样可以跟爱人亲吻的?

据说白俄罗斯站也是个景点。。。出去逛逛的。这个时候都7点了,天一片湛蓝。组右边浅绿色的建筑就是白俄罗斯站。好了,天色渐晚,我们还要回酒店check-in呢,

为了去搭乘地铁。。。坐这个扶手电梯,下啊下,不知道下了多久,才到月台。其实莫斯科的地铁普遍较深,最浅的有50米,最深的有80米,一来是因为俄罗斯的地质较松软,必须要把地铁修到河床的下面,二来是因为打仗需要,可以作为防空洞,也可以打核战。注意老婆大人身后的情侣,亲了一路。。。反应出欧美人的豪放,欧美人在公共场合各种亲吻长达数分钟毫不避嫌,比亚洲人开放太多太多。。。

有人说,俄罗斯的地铁本身就是一大景观。真人去到现场的话,真心碉堡。用的居然是反射光!大家仔细看墙上的灯。。。是射在地铁月台的穹顶上,然后再反射到整个月台。。。而且地铁名字本身就是碉堡。。。什么普希金站,什么马雅科夫斯基站,满满的都是故事好吗!虽然建设得最厉害的是共青团站,整个就是教堂级的建设,但是我们这个白俄罗斯站也不错。而且穹顶上有壁画,讲的是一些白俄罗斯的民族风俗什么的。

地铁里也是居然贴的不是广告,而是类似天朝的十大将军,十大元帅之类的。厉害!不过没有英文,不知道这是谁,反正一定是俄罗斯路人皆知的名人啦。

莫斯科地铁里有很多人在表演,而且注意地下那块红色的东西,那个是合法表演合法讨钱的席位。。。要事先申请的。而且莫斯科地铁的隧道是天然的纯共鸣箱,隔了几十米还以为在放音响,声音巨大洪亮,走了几十米拐了N个弯才发现原来是有人在演奏。

换乘了三四次,终于换乘到了酒店门口。。。住的地方还可以,比较有欧洲特色,满满的欧洲文艺复兴时期俄罗斯从西欧偷学过来的巴洛克式风格的建筑。这下感觉真的到了欧洲了。周围有十几家吃饭的地方,如果吃俄罗斯料理吃吐了的话,楼下还有中华料理和印度料理,据说都很正宗。反正住的这个地方离地铁口就只有几百米,去哪里都特方便。

莫斯科的住宿还是很贵的。大概500多人民币一晚的房间,感觉还没国内的如家精选好。。。不过不求这么多了,毕竟可以走路走去红场和克里姆林宫的距离的一环附近的酒店啊,这个价格还有什么好说的呢。主要是早餐太完美了。

从酒店窗户往外看,整个城市非常干净,整洁,霸气。去了塞尔维亚的话,那风景简直就翻天了。。。。塞尔维亚先按下不表。

好不容易等到10点多,太阳终于下山了。。。出门觅食。真不知道吃什么好。刚来的时候感觉时差倒不过来,整个人就要窒息的感觉。。。呼吸不上来了。莫斯科的夜景是非常美的,可惜没有时间看了,找了个餐厅赶紧吃了点快餐,就上床睡觉了。不过时差的威力太强大了,坐飞机坐了10个小时,新干线2小时,途中等飞机2小时,然后机场到酒店2-3小时,但是就是不知道为什么躺床上居然失眠了。。。。对了,网上说,晚上不要出门,因为俄罗斯的警察很坏,专门欺负中国人,专门会在路上盘查中国人看随身携带护照,以及保险没。请大家不要相信这些片面之词,因为我经常带同时到上海出差,出差前,从来没出过国的日本同事,也会上网查,查出来的结论是:“中国遍地都是小偷,包包一定要放前面,然后不要用公用wifi,会被盗窃各种银行资料信息等等”。大家说这个不是扯淡吗?同样,你以为你走在路上就会被莫斯科首都警察勒索,那也绝对是妄想症了。不过安全起见,不光是俄罗斯,任何国家,出门旅游都是要随身携带护照和旅游保险的。

住的地方真心不咋滴,但是早餐是不错的了,各种俄罗斯料理的精髓——香肠、煎蛋、火腿、芝士。。。不能理解国内的各种大叔大妈说,去欧洲的话很快就吃腻了,想吐,想吃一碗中国的面条。。。我发现我吃了十几天欧洲菜,都是美味至极呢。不能理解,为什么都说不好吃呢。品尝各式各样的香肠也是一种人生啊,光芝士就有10机种口味呢!

酒店门口给老婆来一张。酒店名字叫做garden ring hotel,还不错吧感觉,非常安静,离地铁口只有一两百米的样子。准备出发去逛逛莫斯科咯。既然来了莫斯科,既然是住在一环附近的,那肯定是步行去红场啦!不去红场,不去克里姆林宫,那来莫斯科干啥呢。。。

美美滴给老婆来张到此一游照。。。反正是在欧洲啦,但是是不是在莫斯科就不知道啦。。。

然后让老婆给我来一张。。。我这张绝对知道是在俄罗斯哈。因为悬挂得有俄罗斯的国旗。不过上传到博客上以后图像变得好糊。其实相机拍出来的图像是非常的清晰的。二环以内的俄罗斯基本就是高大上的俄罗斯了。满街都是奔驰宝马。虽然不像日本人100个人里面99个人都是紧身西装,但是至少100个男人里面有50个是紧身西装的了。很不错的感觉。

莫斯科二环的街景。整个城市除了稍后会讲到的商务中心CBD有玻璃楼以外,都是这样的地方。不过胜在霸气。街道宽敞,干净。高级的工作,较高的收入必然带来较高的素质。。。没人乱扔垃圾。不过闯红灯的比比皆是。

感觉莫斯科的2环和1环之间就跟浦西的感觉一样。低矮的房子。莫斯科的GDP总量大概和上海差不多,因此就算拿到中国的话也绝对是一线城市了。虽然俄罗斯现在没落了,可是千万别小看俄罗斯哦。。。毕竟是曾经的超级大国,瘦死的骆驼比马大。其实这些街景咋看之下不咋地,但是去了塞尔维亚和波黑回来后,对比那边的街景,发现莫斯科的街景绝对是帝王,霸气。


在欧洲随处可以见到这样的橱窗。其实很喜欢这样的橱窗。走在欧洲的街头,看着橱窗里的摆设,其实就可以玩1天。。。

街头一景。

补好意思,把灯柱拍在了正中间,犯了拍照的大忌。。。后面那种伪雅典建筑不知道是啥。。。在莫斯科的一环,随便拍一张照片都是“著名的XXX”。


俄罗斯的建筑,真的是给人很霸气的感觉。很多建筑,特别是政府机构,都是高墙森严,给人一种帝国不可侵犯的感觉。这种以霸气为卖点的建筑,是斯大林风格建筑,此人就喜欢修这种霸气的建筑。

老婆,您领子没弄好!

这次去的俄罗斯,塞尔维亚和波黑,都发现一个共同的特点,就是这车牌。。。上面都有显示国家。难道是因为欧洲国家太多,大家经常开车穿来穿去,所以为了知道车牌归属国,就在车牌上印国旗?还有车牌下面基本都有汽车经销商电话。。。太神奇了。

走啊走,从酒店出发,走了60分钟,一路走一路拍,终于远远地看到了朱可夫元帅的雕像。去红场的话基本上会看到这个雕像。说明红场快到了!不知道为什么,超清晰的照片,上传到博客上以后就变得面目全非了。。。一般懂文学的人知道各种俄国人的名字,但是不懂文学的普通人,也能说上几个俄国人的名字。。。比如斯大林,列宁,赫鲁晓夫,戈尔巴乔夫,叶利钦之类的,但是还有一个人就是朱可夫元帅了。。。号称第二次世界大战中的传奇元帅。。。战神呐。可惜功高盖主,差点被世界三大恶魔之一的斯大林给清洗了。后来赫鲁晓夫上台后也搞他,勃列日涅夫也搞他,直到他死的那一刻,还在监听他。。。右边就是妥妥的大妈大爷旅行团,请无视之。。。朱可夫大元帅雕像后面的宏伟的建筑,是俄罗斯国家历史博物馆。号称建馆之后从未闭馆过。不过我们这次因为只在俄罗斯待两天,所以就没有进去看了,因为想着以后去欧洲玩还会再途径俄罗斯的,而且俄罗斯离和中国互免签证也不远了,因此想着以后再进来慢慢看。这次旅游还算是莫斯科掠影吧。然后旁边有一个们,进去就是亚历山大花园。。。

亚历山大花园是克里姆林宫外面的一个长方形的花园。很多人在这里休息。我觉得天安门广场旁边要是有空地的话也应该搞个花园。。。既然叫亚历山大花园,那肯定就是亚历山大一世建立的咯。其实就是亚历山大一世的皇家园林,也是整个沙皇的皇家园林。如果说唯一一个我记得住的古代俄罗斯的人的名字的话,那就是亚历山大一世了。。。

亚历山大花园开发了很多商店街。周边当然还有很多。。。KFC和金拱门了。。。

各种掉雕像,各种喷水池跟花园浑然一体。。。

俄罗斯牧首。请先看下图,再回来看文字,谢谢。。。简单来讲,基督教三大流派,天主教、东正教和新教。统称基督教。都信上帝和耶稣。唯一不同的就是组织形式不同,以及艺术风格不同。。。简单来说,罗马帝国支持基督教为国教。后来罗马帝国分裂成西罗马帝国和东罗马帝国,那西罗马帝国就支持天主教,东罗马帝国就支持东正教。那俄罗斯在东欧,自然就是受东罗马帝国影响信东正教咯。不懂的还是先看看下图吧。。。 世界上东正教有四个牧首,分别是君士坦丁堡牧首、亚历山大里亚牧首、安提阿牧首、耶路撒冷牧首。俄罗斯牧首名义上位于他们之下。


亚历山大花园内著名的 无名烈士墓,墓碑上镌刻着:“你的名字无人知晓,你的功绩永世长存”。 主要是用来纪念在第二次世界大战中牺牲的军人。这个火已经烧了半个世纪了,从来没有间断过。。。而且十二点有换岗仪式,不过没什么意思了,顾名思义就是换岗而已。然后我老婆说,为什么立个假人在这里。。。我瞬间泪崩,人家一动不动军姿飒爽你说人家是假人,要是人家扭来扭去你又说人家没纪律。。。

这就是亚历山大一世。率领军队击败了拿破仑的神人。

城墙里面就是著名的红场,以及克里姆林宫了。在花园逛得好累,进去看看吧!

好多过来见学的可爱的baby们呀。一个个真心可爱。

这就是红场的全部了。其实只有天安门广场的5分之一大,但是国际知名度还是秒杀天安门广场。。。逛完以后,我老婆问,那我们什么时候去红场呢?我说,我们不是一直在红场吗?我老婆说,纳尼,这就是红场?我说,这TM不是红场是啥?。。。给大家科普一下。。。红场可不是红色的哦。红场的红,指的是“美丽的”意思。

开始以为是一个碉堡了的宫殿。结果从侧门进去后,发现是个奢侈品百货商场。据说有1000多家商店,全是世界最顶级的奢侈品。。。

不愧是世界十大百货商场,果然够金碧辉煌。金碧辉煌到,我拉个尿也收了我50卢布。。。里面的东西看看就好。奢侈品什么的,买也买不起呀。。。

花5块钱人民币(50卢布)撒完尿出来就准备去红场的瓦西里升天大教堂看看了。这个建筑算是俄罗斯独一无二的了。。。有这么一张照片的话,终于可以100%证明自己到了俄罗斯了。。。这种洋葱头的教堂,就是东正教了。东正教的教堂就是这种圆顶的!强烈的拜占庭风格有木有!而西欧天主教教堂就是尖的!很好区别对不对。这座教堂是“恐怖的伊凡”(就是伊凡四世,俗称伊凡大帝)建造的,为了庆祝自己战胜了喀山汗国而建。里面的历史太复杂了,相信各位也没什么兴趣。。。简单来说,就是以前莫斯科是一个大公国,当时欧洲有很多大公国,比较有实力的还有什么立陶宛大公国之类的。。。然后蒙古人杀到东欧,俄罗斯什么的就对蒙古人俯首称臣,被蒙古人统治了240多年。。。然后蒙古也是有很多汗国的,什么金帐汗国,喀山汗国之类的。后来干掉喀山汗国后,等于说俄罗斯的实力大增,一举杀到西伯利亚,最后打到北朝鲜的上面。。。所以打败喀山汗国是很重要的。为了纪念这个胜利,就修建了这个瓦西里升天大教堂。

花500卢布买张票进去看看。。。。

哇,人生第一次进教堂,感觉好神圣的样子!西方教堂的顶,可真高呀。。。一束阳光射进来,圣洁,净化心灵。。。刚好还有教徒在里面吟唱。。。没有借助任何道具,教堂自带共鸣就已经给人进入天堂一般的感觉。。。。

东正教教堂区别于天主教教堂的很大的地方就是——
没有雕塑,只有平面的壁画!另外也没有椅子给教徒坐!大家都得站着!
所以东正教教堂看起来没有那么强的感官刺激。但是同样也是很厉害的啦。

黄金做的封面的圣经。哦,对了,补充一句,东正教是君权高于神权。就是在西欧,那些天主教的地方,经常可以看到教皇给皇帝加冕,但是在东正教的地盘就不是这样的啦。

逛完教堂,出来透透气。游客都把整个红场周边四通八达的大街都挤爆了。特别是各种天朝来的旅游团,很人多势众的感觉。路牌要是有中文就更好了。

然后去逛了逛军事博物馆。其实没啥逛的,说是军事博物馆,展的都尽是些什么宫女的衣服,各种花瓶碟子碗之类的。。。主要是跟人有约,所以我们连普京办公的地方都没有时间去看啦。。。等下次吧,以后到俄罗斯转机的机会多呢,到时候再来看看。莫斯科还有非常多的地方值得细细游玩。还有圣彼得堡呢,以后肯定会有机会再来的。到时候再来看看克里姆林宫里面的结构。

哈哈,就是跟高中同学有约!到了莫斯科后,发了一个微信朋友圈,然后13年没见的高中同学居然联系我说,她正在莫斯科跑业务。。。问有没有时间吃饭。哈哈,没有时间也得挤啊,饭必须得吃啊!交流了很多很多,很开心!不过鄙人犯了一个小错哈,同学她问我我们住哪个酒店时,因为我们之前预定过1个酒店名字叫gold ring hotel,所以我就跟她说这个名字,她不远万里打车过去,结果到了酒店大堂了,我才发现我们的酒店名字叫 Graden ring hotel。。。。然后她又急忙地打车过来。。。不好意思哈。选了1家很不错的餐厅,全场就我们一桌,堪称包场。。。

俄罗斯料理。。。如果把蔬菜拿到火上烤一拷也叫做料理的话。。。但是味道还蛮好的。

烤鸡,又是一道俄罗斯著名料理。。。吃完回去睡觉。。。时差还没倒过来呢,旅途花了十五十六个小时,昨晚才睡了4个小时就惊醒了,今天回去躺着赶紧补补觉吧。
——————————-第二天———————————-

第二天睁开眼睛就11点多了。。。真是旅途劳累。赶紧去著名的步行街阿尔巴特大街看看。据说俄罗斯妹子胸以下全是腿。。。这话说得没错。但是网上有谣言说生了小孩就会变得巨胖。。。这一定是嫉妒!是恨!你看人家两位妈妈的身材。。。话题先回到正题,这个阿尔巴特大街据说1493年就建成了,值得一逛。特别是普希金的故居就在这条街上,喜欢文学的可以去看啊。我也喜欢文学,比如西游记什么的。。。

阿尔巴特大街是莫斯科现存最古老的大街。号称艺术家的天堂。。。感觉有点像深圳的东门步行街,上海的南京东路,北京的西单王府井。。。其实每个国家都有这么一条商业步行街。但是莫斯科的大街稍微文艺范一点,卖书的,卖油画的比较多一点。虽然整条街东西很多,各种商品都有,但是真的很贵。。。看看就好。大街太宽了点,显得没什么客人呀。。。不过不是周末,周五大白天能有这水平也不错了。。。

俄罗斯的特色,就是套娃了。。。 套娃的内容比较多,即有传统的套娃,即俄罗斯小女孩,还有各种著名足球运动员,普京特朗普等国家领导人,拔掉一个,里面又有一个,拔掉一个,里面又有一个。。。而且很多套娃的表面,一看就是手工涂上去的,有兴趣的可以入一个回家做纪念品。只是这种风格跟我们家极简的装修风格格格不入,所以我就没入啦。。。大概1个中型的套娃在300-500人民币吧,如果是纯手工做的话,还是值这个价格的。如果是印刷上去的,那。。。。你还是去义乌买吧,那有一模一样的。。。

看起来好像是卖普通的油画,其实这里的油画可不普通。。。水平是非常高的。绝对不是深圳大芬村油画速成班的水平,搞不好能淘到高级作品,将来变得价值连城呢。。。看着看着,又看到我昨天跟我吃饭的高中同学了。。。原来她同事要买油画,所以就带他同事过来挑选油画。。。看来还是有懂行的人呀。。。


阿尔巴特大街一角。莫斯科有各种大街,高尔基大街,列宁大道,特维尔大街等等,各有各的特色吧。这条街的特色就是,古朴诗意,富有人文气息。

我啥也没买,就买了个俄罗斯的国旗。。。双头鹰是拜占庭的标志,俄罗斯采用双头鹰就说明了俄罗斯希望继承拜占庭帝国的意志,想向世人证明它是最纯正的拜占庭帝国的继承人。不过下一篇博客我们去的塞尔维亚也是双头鹰标志。。。两个国家的国旗傻傻分不清啊。

逛了很久,还没吃中午饭呢,于是找个地方坐下来,点了两杯啤酒。走累了喝杯啤酒真是完美的感觉啊。

幸好有英文菜单,不至于两眼一抹黑。

后面有只黑熊。。。不知道这个地方是不是网红店,有好几批中国人跑来跟这只黑熊合影后就走了。。。据说这只黑熊是真的标本?坐在这样的地方看着来来往往形形色色的人群,可以坐一下午。。。回日本后我也要在自己家的院子里搞一把太阳伞。。。

看到隔壁桌的人在吃这个。。。我跟老板说,我要点个跟他们一模一样的东西。然后东西端上来了,50人民币,良心价。。。尝了一口,超级无敌好吃。前苏联的领导人赫鲁晓夫对什么是共产主义有一个憧憬:当我们天天都能吃到土豆烧牛肉的时候,那就是共产主义。 这句话背后的政治含义我们先不说。。。为什么这么多菜他不说,要说土豆烧牛肉?因为俄罗斯人真的很喜欢吃土豆烧牛肉啊,而且味道一绝。。。把土豆泥和生奶油搅拌,上面再放上炖牛肉,然后淋上酱,超级美味。

一路逛啊逛,走到这里就算是阿尔巴特大街的尽头了。拐角处有个超市,进去看看,顺便上个厕所。

俄罗斯的商品包装得很精致,漂亮。但是据说密封性不好。莫斯科很多大型商场,大型超市一进门就有一个保安拿着根警棍盯着来往的行人,而且还有安检设备。。。看来莫斯科有恐怖主义经常发生?通过一个国家的超市,可以大概看出这个国家的人喜欢吃什么东西,中产阶层的消费水平处于一个什么水平。

看得出来他们真的很喜欢吃火腿。。。

莫斯科建筑史上的神话。。。七姐妹之一的外交部大楼。非常宏伟,即使放在现在,还是超厉害的感觉。不敢想象这是1948年开始建的建筑。超级大国风范一览无遗。。。另外,所谓的七姐妹,就是斯大林时期,为了展现苏联的强盛,要把美国比下去,就建了这么七栋大楼。主要是因为苏联以伤亡2000万人的代价,终于赢得了战争,一跃成为了超级大国,引领一半人类的超级大国,那就得修一点社会主义超级大国的建筑!因为莫斯科本身就被炸得不行了,而且都是一些欧洲风格的建筑!所以要让建筑师他们设计“斯大林风格建筑”,要全面赶超曼哈顿。。。可是什么是斯大林风格建筑呢。。。于是就有了上图外交部大楼这种巴洛克城堡的感觉,但是有带点黑暗、死亡、十字架、黑猫、丧尸、重生的哥特式风格,又掺杂着类似美国帝国大厦那种感觉的风格。

莫斯科河沿岸。河边有巨多俄罗斯妹子在这里汽车,走路,以及滑滑板车。。。而且都是超级无敌靓。。。中国的所谓的那些网红整形脸的嫩模,真是没法跟别人比,差得太远了。

七姐妹之一,乌克兰饭店。欧洲最高的饭店。。。不过说来俄罗斯真可悲。。。以前苏联时期,白俄罗斯,乌克兰等都是苏联的领土,结果苏联解体后,白俄罗斯也独立了,乌克兰也独立了。。。剩下火车站名字还叫白俄罗斯站,酒店名字还叫乌克兰饭店。。。除了白俄罗斯跟俄罗斯关系密切以外,乌克兰都差点跟俄罗斯干起了。。。

走路走得好累。。。让我猥琐地在莫斯科河畔躺一会儿吧。。。四月底五月初的天气不冷不热真是完美。

沿着莫斯科河走啊走,就能看到俄罗斯的中央商务区(CBD),也是整个东欧的唯一的CBD。。。有一定的科技感,但是数量不多,特别是最下面居然有个东正教教堂式建筑混在里面实在掉价。还有七栋正在修建,未来还会再修大概4-5栋。。。5年后吧,5年后再来这里看这里应该就是不输给大陆二线城市的天际线了。。。

准备坐电车回去了。果然配合新的CBD就要用新的地铁啊。。。连报站的地方都是电子屏,秒杀上海有木有。莫斯科未来还要修50个地铁站。。。我觉得很好啊,要想富先修路嘛,没有大兴土木的国家是死气沉沉的国家。。。想想深圳号称中国最年轻最有活力的城市,才那么两三条线,可悲。。。应该再搞他个50个站才配得上一线城市的称号。

还可以充电。还可以看换乘。。。新的地铁就是厉害。有充电的地方就方便看直播了。。。

跟老婆在一家高级餐厅吃个晚餐,准备明早撤离俄罗斯奔赴塞尔维亚了。在俄罗斯点菜,很简单,你只需要说一些最基本的词就好了,比如:“this,one,this two,water,beer”就可以了。千万不要企图跟服务员沟通。。。稍微难点的句子基本上就无法沟通了,比如我说:“Which one do you strongly recommend?(有什么强烈推荐的吗)”,然后对方来一句:“哈??”,好吧,换一种说法:“Specialty!(特色菜)”!对方依然来一句:“哈???”。没办法了,“Most popular food!”,然后。。。对方拿出翻译手机让我对着手机说。。。累。。。最后买单的时候,本人大喊一声:“Check!”,然后服务员过来,问我要什么茶。。。

烤牛肉沙拉。。。超级好吃。虽然是沙拉,两个人点一份分着吃就够了,量还是很大的。烤牛肉沙拉这也是一道俄罗斯有名的菜,大家来的时候别忘记点了哦。

让 服务员给我上了个最有名的莫斯科料理,上来了,一看,哈哈果然还是土豆炖牛肉,土豆里面依然是搅拌着有生奶油哈。哈哈,吃完回家睡觉了,在莫斯科短暂的两天,还有很多地方没去,没去才好呢,下次转机过来才有借口去逛逛哈哈。不过下次还是希望去圣彼得堡啦。
非常喜欢莫斯科,霸气的街道,高大威猛的男人,胸以下全是腿的女人,模特的面孔。下次有机会来莫斯科的话不去一环了,准备去三环四环转转,那里的世界是充满了涂鸦的世界,是各种苏联时期修的极其难看的筒子楼且墙皮剥落满地垃圾的世界。去那里看看,去那边的菜市场,小商品市场看看,看看真正的底层的俄罗斯人是怎么生活的,可能又有一番不同的感悟。
Kuroha
留个爪印!🐾
北极猪
好久没更新了,问好,去单位看。
haye
照片好看,写的很幽默,身临其境
KK
哇有更新了! 车牌下是经销商联系方式,美国也喜欢这样哈哈。
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